Apartment prices start from €25, while hotel rooms begin at €30. As for accommodation in the town of Étretat, prices are higher due to its proximity to a popular tourist site: a room in an apartment costs from €40, and a hotel room from €53.
What to see?
The port city of Le Havre was almost completely destroyed during World War II, so its architecture is unlikely to impress you greatly.
There is, however, one remarkable church — Saint Joseph’s — which rises above the city like a skyscraper. Adding even more futuristic flair is the new “Volcan” cultural center building, designed in the shape of an actual volcano. And if you are a fan of Impressionism, the world’s second-largest collection is housed in the Malraux Museum in Le Havre.
Where to stay?
This time, I once again used Couchsurfing, and it turned out to be the best experience of all my travels. Here’s why: my host, Thomas, is a pilot, and to maintain his skills he flies several times a month. The weekend of our arrival happened to coincide with his flight practice over the cliffs of Étretat. As a result, we found ourselves aboard a private plane, spending half an hour admiring the breathtaking landscapes of the English Channel coastline from a bird’s-eye view.
My advice to you is not to stay long in the city and go to see the cliffs of Etretat, as if they had just come from Monet's paintings. The town of the same name is located 30 kilometers from Le Havre and can be reached by bus #24 departing from the station. Buses run quite infrequently, so it is better to check the schedule on the website of the Etretat tourist office.
Étretat has been my long-held dream ever since I saw Monet’s painting. Chalk cliffs contrasting with emerald greenery and washed by the turquoise waters of the English Channel. Three headlands and whimsical arches — at every turn of the cliffside path you try to capture the breathtaking scenery. And I was lucky enough to fly over all this beauty!
I highly recommend descending to the pebble beaches for a picnic, as Normandy is the land of the three “C’s”: Cider (Cidre), Camembert, and Calvados. I also suggest trying mussels or oysters, feeding the bold seagulls along the promenade, and admiring the charming half-timbered houses.
Mont-Saint-Michel
How to get there?
The journey from Le Havre to the abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel is not simple; I traveled by three buses and two trains. From Le Havre, bus No. 20 to Caen, then a train to Pontorson, followed by a shuttle to the abbey. On the way back, the same shuttle to Pontorson and then a train to Rennes. These transfers cost about €56 and took half a day. After spending the night in Rennes, we boarded a TGV train to Paris. The ticket cost €20 when purchased three months in advance, while the usual average price is around €60. The French railway system is run by monopolies — and the prices reflect that.
Where to stay?
On the road from Pontorson to the abbey itself, there are quite a few guesthouses with prices starting at €40. If you wish to see Mont-Saint-Michel turning into an island during high tide, you can stay at one of the five local hotels, where the cheapest room costs €104. Honestly, however, a few hours are enough to explore the site, and staying overnight is not essential.
What to see?
“A pyramid in the ocean” — this is how Victor Hugo described the abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel. It is the island’s main attraction. Throughout its history, which began in the 8th century, the abbey has served as a fortress, a monastery, and even a prison.
Today, the entire island consists of a single street lined with 15th–16th century houses that have been transformed into hotels and restaurants. The island is overwhelmingly touristy, which is hardly surprising, as Mont-Saint-Michel ranks second only to the Eiffel Tower in visitor numbers.
You can escape the crowds only in the evening, when according to the tide schedule the causeway is covered by water. The exact timetable of tides can be found on the abbey’s tourist center website. But here’s a secret: Mont-Saint-Michel becomes a true island only a few days a year, during the powerful spring and autumn tides; in summer, this phenomenon cannot be seen.
From afar, the island looks like a fairytale castle, and in my view, this is its finest angle, because once you get closer, you are met with emptiness — both literally and figuratively. Inside the abbey, very few historical structures and works of art have been preserved, so commercial chaos attempts to make up for it with millions of magnets and postcards.
While admiring the view from the height of the spire, I noticed groups of tourists walking across the sand from the previously flooded shore — I imagine the view from there must also be quite impressive. In any case, I still recommend that everyone see this eighth wonder of the world at least once, but remember: the best view of Mont-Saint-Michel is from a distance. And be careful not to be pushed off the causeway by Chinese tourists :)
