A route through the uncharted north of France — from Lille to Le Mon-Saint-Michel

In fact, my first trip to France was just to Paris — a city undoubtedly beautiful, but which is clearly not enough for a complete acquaintance with the country. Therefore, two years ago, a plan was made to visit a French province, which was Normandy.

Then, because of lack of time, I chose a one-day excursion to this apple region and visited only three memorable cities: Rouen with its incredible cathedral, the fishing town of Honfleur and luxurious Deauville with beaches where Coco Chanel introduced the fashion for bathing. I finally fell in love with the birthplace of Impressionism and was determined to return in the future for a longer period.

The return took place this summer in the context of an extensive trip that included Poland, Belgium, the Netherlands and two regions of France, Nord-pas-de-Calais and Normandy. The itinerary included Lille, Le Havre and Mont Saint-Michel, which I will tell you about.

Lille

Lille is the capital of the northernmost region, where I traveled from Amsterdam.

How to get there?

A Megabus ticket cost €1.50 and was bought three months before the departure date — that's how long it takes for Megabus to post new tickets every day for all destinations, but only the first ones are cheap, so you have to time it right. You can get from Paris and from Brussels on buses of the same company. The standard ticket price is €10-15.

Where to stay?

All my trip was organized through kauchsurfing, so I didn't have to pay for accommodation. And as an alternative budget option — you can rent an apartment. Prices start from €21 for a room in an apartment and from €37 for an apartment. The cheapest bed in a hostel will also cost about €21, and a double room in a cheap hotel — €28 per night.

What surprised me?

The first thing that pleases in Lille is the absence of tourists, if there were any, they were most likely French-speaking. All in all, you'll feel like a pioneer! The Belgian influence is also evident, both in the language and the cuisine.

To understand what the French themselves think of their northern compatriots, I highly recommend the movie "Bienvenue chez les Ch'tis". It's about their funny accent with a mixture of Dutch, and their love for the peculiarly smelling Maroille cheese.

In Lille even the main square is called Grand Place, like in Brussels, and wine is preferred to beer. A few times I was grabbed by locals on the street and warned about pickpockets, but luckily I never met one.

What to see?

You can start exploring the city from the main square, where the most beautiful building is located — the Old Bourse in the Flemish Renaissance style, not far from it is the Town Hall and the military citadel.

As in all ancient cities, Lille has a palace — the former residence of the Dukes of Burgundy of the XV century called Rioure. Connoisseurs of art can recommend the Palace of Fine Arts, but those interested in history can visit the House Museum of Charles de Gaulle, the first president of the Fifth Republic and leader of the French Resistance in World War II.

My advice to those arriving in Lille: simply get lost among the city’s narrow streets; pay attention to the colorful shutters and doors that resemble true works of art. Ask locals for directions — you may not understand the answer (in provincial towns, few people have even heard of English), but you will certainly enjoy the melody of the language. And treat yourself to a glass of wine on the terrace of one of the establishments where the locals usually dine.

Le Havre — the Cliffs of Étretat

How to get there?

There is no direct train or bus from Lille to Le Havre, so I chose an alternative option — Blablacar. It was my first experience using this service, and it fully met my expectations. Traveling at 140 km/h, we reached our destination in just 2.5 hours. The trip cost €20.

I should warn you that the French Blablacar website requires full prepayment by card, and if you accidentally make a payment or the driver cancels the trip, your money will only be refunded after a month. The payment process for drivers is also somewhat complicated: after paying by card, you receive an SMS with a secret code, which you give to the driver if the trip has been successfully completed — only then does the driver receive the payment.

If you are hesitant about traveling by car with a stranger, there is a TGV train with a transfer in Rouen, but the journey will take about 4 hours and cost from €30. From Paris to Le Havre, there is a direct train that will get you there in 2 hours, with fares starting from €20.

Apartment prices start from €25, while hotel rooms begin at €30. As for accommodation in the town of Étretat, prices are higher due to its proximity to a popular tourist site: a room in an apartment costs from €40, and a hotel room from €53.

What to see?

The port city of Le Havre was almost completely destroyed during World War II, so its architecture is unlikely to impress you greatly.

There is, however, one remarkable church — Saint Joseph’s — which rises above the city like a skyscraper. Adding even more futuristic flair is the new “Volcan” cultural center building, designed in the shape of an actual volcano. And if you are a fan of Impressionism, the world’s second-largest collection is housed in the Malraux Museum in Le Havre.

Where to stay?

This time, I once again used Couchsurfing, and it turned out to be the best experience of all my travels. Here’s why: my host, Thomas, is a pilot, and to maintain his skills he flies several times a month. The weekend of our arrival happened to coincide with his flight practice over the cliffs of Étretat. As a result, we found ourselves aboard a private plane, spending half an hour admiring the breathtaking landscapes of the English Channel coastline from a bird’s-eye view.

My advice to you is not to stay long in the city and go to see the cliffs of Etretat, as if they had just come from Monet's paintings. The town of the same name is located 30 kilometers from Le Havre and can be reached by bus #24 departing from the station. Buses run quite infrequently, so it is better to check the schedule on the website of the Etretat tourist office.

Étretat has been my long-held dream ever since I saw Monet’s painting. Chalk cliffs contrasting with emerald greenery and washed by the turquoise waters of the English Channel. Three headlands and whimsical arches — at every turn of the cliffside path you try to capture the breathtaking scenery. And I was lucky enough to fly over all this beauty!

I highly recommend descending to the pebble beaches for a picnic, as Normandy is the land of the three “C’s”: Cider (Cidre), Camembert, and Calvados. I also suggest trying mussels or oysters, feeding the bold seagulls along the promenade, and admiring the charming half-timbered houses.

Mont-Saint-Michel

How to get there?

The journey from Le Havre to the abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel is not simple; I traveled by three buses and two trains. From Le Havre, bus No. 20 to Caen, then a train to Pontorson, followed by a shuttle to the abbey. On the way back, the same shuttle to Pontorson and then a train to Rennes. These transfers cost about €56 and took half a day. After spending the night in Rennes, we boarded a TGV train to Paris. The ticket cost €20 when purchased three months in advance, while the usual average price is around €60. The French railway system is run by monopolies — and the prices reflect that.

Where to stay?

On the road from Pontorson to the abbey itself, there are quite a few guesthouses with prices starting at €40. If you wish to see Mont-Saint-Michel turning into an island during high tide, you can stay at one of the five local hotels, where the cheapest room costs €104. Honestly, however, a few hours are enough to explore the site, and staying overnight is not essential.

What to see?

“A pyramid in the ocean” — this is how Victor Hugo described the abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel. It is the island’s main attraction. Throughout its history, which began in the 8th century, the abbey has served as a fortress, a monastery, and even a prison.

Today, the entire island consists of a single street lined with 15th–16th century houses that have been transformed into hotels and restaurants. The island is overwhelmingly touristy, which is hardly surprising, as Mont-Saint-Michel ranks second only to the Eiffel Tower in visitor numbers.

You can escape the crowds only in the evening, when according to the tide schedule the causeway is covered by water. The exact timetable of tides can be found on the abbey’s tourist center website. But here’s a secret: Mont-Saint-Michel becomes a true island only a few days a year, during the powerful spring and autumn tides; in summer, this phenomenon cannot be seen.

From afar, the island looks like a fairytale castle, and in my view, this is its finest angle, because once you get closer, you are met with emptiness — both literally and figuratively. Inside the abbey, very few historical structures and works of art have been preserved, so commercial chaos attempts to make up for it with millions of magnets and postcards.

While admiring the view from the height of the spire, I noticed groups of tourists walking across the sand from the previously flooded shore — I imagine the view from there must also be quite impressive. In any case, I still recommend that everyone see this eighth wonder of the world at least once, but remember: the best view of Mont-Saint-Michel is from a distance. And be careful not to be pushed off the causeway by Chinese tourists :)