The administrative system of the Republic of Estonia traces its roots back to the 13th century when it was established by the Knights of the Livonian Order. These crusaders took control of the settlement areas belonging to the Finno-Ugric Estonian people and divided the conquered lands into eight Maakond districts, corresponding to the historical regions of Estonia - Harju, Lääne, Virumaa, Saare, Rävala, Ugandi, Sakala, and Järva. Additionally, the Order's land holdings included four independent regions: Alempois, Nurmekund, Vaiga, and Myhu.
Upon gaining independence, there were 15 districts within the territory of the Estonian SSR, later reorganized into counties. The administrative centers of these counties are the largest cities in their respective Estonian regions. Surrounding villages and farms are grouped into volosts, and in some cases, a volost may consist of only one village.
The intriguing and somewhat challenging names of Estonia's regions ignite the curiosity and adventurous spirit within even the most cosmopolitan of individuals. It's an ideal destination for eco-tourism, as the untouched landscapes remain relatively unaffected by the world's urbanization, offering a wealth of geological attractions.
Northern Estonia
The northern regions of Estonia, including Harjumaa, Lääne-Virumaa, and Ida-Virumaa, serve as a stone chronicle of the country. Here, the grand ruins of knights' castles and noble estates seamlessly blend into the landscape of limestone clays and sand dunes, adorned with the vibrant greenery of coniferous forests.
Harjumaa, the most urbanized region with the highest population density, boasts six towns, including the capital of the young republic, the city of Tallinn, founded by Danish settlers in 1219. The area captivates with its well-preserved 18th- and 19th-century architecture. Visitors can explore historic manors such as Saku, Vichterpalu, Saue, and the palace and park complex of Vasalemma.
This county boasts 17 landscape preserves, established to safeguard unique natural wonders. These include the limestone clay of the Pakri Peninsula, the karst field and cult stones in the Tohala River basin, heathlands surrounding lakes Jussi and Paukjärv, the Oru bridge, and the Sinialikad springs within the Põhja-Kõrvemaa nature reserve. The Heinasoo bog has preserved gatas dating back to the 3rd and 4th centuries, while the coastal cliffs of Turisalu offer stunning views of the rocky Suurupi Peninsula, famously featured in Georgi Kozintsev's film adaptation of "Hamlet."
Exploring Tallinn Bay is a memorable experience with its breathtaking coastline. Renting a yacht, kayak, or canoe provides an excellent opportunity to discover the small islands of Aegna, Prangli, Eksi, Kolga, and Mohni.
Lääne-Virumaa is renowned for its iconic megaliths, sculpted by a glacier on the coast of the Gulf of Finland within Lahemaa National Park. Nearby, in a tranquil grove, you'll find the ethnographic settlement of Altja, housing a rich collection of ancient fishing equipment.
The region offers winding hiking trails leading to Palmse Manor, once owned by the von Palen family. Another meticulously reconstructed nobleman's residence, Sagadi Manor, features an extensive forest museum exhibit in its surroundings.
In the northern part of the park lies the famed "captains' village" of Käsmu, where the first Estonian-made ship set sail. From 1884 to 1931, a nautical school operated here, and local enthusiasts have transformed the former border post into the Maritime Museum.
Exploring the Neeruti Landscape Reserve unveils the secrets of the Ice Age, while the surreal karst valleys in the southern part of the region surpass even the wildest imaginings of surrealist artists. Not far from the town of Kunda, you'll encounter the Lammasmägi settlement, an ancient site dating back to the Mesolithic period.
Close to the sacred Ebavere hill, where legend has it that one of the supreme gods of the Finno-Ugric pantheon, Tarapita, was born, stands the Vao Tower, constructed in the 14th century. Nearby, you can visit Kiltsay estate, once owned by the maritime dynasty of von Krusenstern.
Ida-Virumaa boasts a territory of remarkable records. In the north-western part of the region lies the Ontika clay, one of the highest in the Baltic States, with an estimated age of 470-570 million years. From its impressive 30.5-meter-high ledge, rushes the vigorous flow of the man-made Valaste waterfall, often referred to as the "Estonian Niagara." The Valaste Cascade holds the distinction of being the tallest waterfall in the Baltic States.
The Oru Landscape Reserve, situated at the mouth of the Pyuhajõe River near the tourist village of Toila, is recognized as the country's most abundant nature park, with a wealth of Devonian rock outcrops that pique the interest of geologists.
Water sports enthusiasts will find their paradise in the expansive Kurtna lake system, along with the longest beach on Lake Peipsi. Additionally, the vibrant Shinimae Hills within the Alutaguse Adventure Park offer thrilling challenges for climbers.
Western Estonia
The western regions of Estonia, including Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, Pärnumaa, and Läänemaa, come alive in full summer glory. These areas are home to the country's primary seaside resorts and spas, where you can unwind amidst tasteful architectural splendor and, simultaneously, enhance your well-being at one of the renowned Baltic coast mud baths.
The county of Saaremaa encompasses not only Estonia's largest island but also its neighboring isles of Abruka, Muhu, Ruhnu, and Vilsandi. These expansive, breezy beaches are popular among European surfers, windsurfers, and kiteboarding enthusiasts.
A kayaking expedition through the archipelago of Vilsandi National Park unveils the mysterious lives of rare bird species nesting on the coastal cliffs. During the holiday season, park authorities arrange seal swims for tourists.
And, of course, don't miss the chance to visit the Kaali meteorite crater, filled with water of a splendid jade hue. The lake is circular and measures 100 meters in diameter, making it suitable for swimming in the summer. Local tradition attributes healing properties to the lake's water.
Hiiumaa is Estonia's second-largest island, boasting an artistically rugged coastline stretching for 310 kilometers. The beach resort of Ristna is particularly renowned among professional riders, thanks to the powerful winds that keep the waves high all year round.
Popular hiking trails on the island take you to the Kassari Spit, where you can find a dense collection of fossils dating back to the Silurian period, as well as the resting places of migratory birds in Orjaku and the shores of Lake Tihu. In the western part of the island, you'll encounter the Kõpu lighthouse, the oldest navigational landmark in the Baltic States, dating back to the early 16th century, which continues to stand watch to this day.
Pärnumaa holds the distinction of being Estonia's largest county by area, situated along the southwestern coast of the Gulf of Riga. Its shallow beaches, embraced by pine forests and white sand dunes, make it a favored destination for young couples with small children.
Stepping onto the secluded island of Kihnu feels like stepping back in time. Local peasant women continue to don colorful folk costumes and possess remarkable skills in handicrafts, producing handmade knitted and woven souvenirs that are sure to delight your family and friends.
The old town of Haapsalu, surrounded by the sea on three sides, serves as a showcase for Läänemaa, the county it belongs to. It was here that Estonia's first mud bath was opened in 1825. Along the seaside promenade, you can find a late 19th-century concert hall adorned with intricate wood carvings, making it a cultural gem of the region.
If you want to explore the rich flora and fauna of the region, Matsala National Park in the Kassari River delta is a must-visit. In early summer, the island of Vormsi becomes a favorite destination for a romantic getaway and still holds traces of tenth- and twelfth-century Baltic Swede settlements. One of the most scenic hiking trails leads from Hullo to Preistviegi, gently winding along the shores of an overgrown lake adorned with a delicate carpet of wild orchids.
Central Estonia.
The central regions of Estonia - Räplamaa, Viljandimaa, and Järvamaa - are particularly attractive in spring. The peace and tranquillity of secluded places restore lost harmony with nature and put you in a romantic mood.
Raplamaa County's cultural heritage has been less affected by historical cataclysms. The key excursion route is known as the "Golden Ring of Raplamaa Manors." The tour program includes visits to the manors of Raikküla, Atla, Tohisoo, Hagudi, Rüütli, and Kehtla. In the towns of Rapla, Vigala, Kohila, and Juuru, Lutheran churches and chapels built by Swedish and German nobles have been preserved.
Some manors function as centers for the development of folk crafts. Atla manor has a pottery workshop and a ceramics store, while Tohisoo manor hosts traditional pot fairs and international symposiums of large-form ceramics. Yarwakandi village has a glass museum and glassblowing studio where you can create your own souvenir.
The limestone plateau in Marjamaa parish deserves special attention among popular hiking destinations. The fragile alvar spruce forest, pushing towards the sun through the flagstone, leaves a strong impression.
Spelunking enthusiasts will enjoy exploring the Pae karst caves in the villages of Kehtla and Kuimetsa near Rapla. A climb up Varbola Hill will reward you with a medieval settlement featuring a siege tower and battering rams. You can book a trip around the settlement in a sleigh, carriage, or on horseback at the Vooré Horse Farm.
Viljandimaa County is primarily known for Soomaa National Park, often called the "wild capital of Estonia." This park unites five bog landscapes with unique flora and fauna. In spring, the floodplain meadows come alive with the calling trills of mating grouse and ruffed grouse. Along the forest edge, you might encounter a Siberian elk, wild boar, or red deer, and there are special observation points for bear watching.
For those seeking unique experiences, an excursion through the flooded park by canoe or traditional boat made from a solid aspen trunk during the "fifth season" when the snow melts is a memorable adventure.
The Loodi Landscape Reserve hides another regional gem, the Loodi Underworld cave spring in the Paistu Valley. The red sandstone outcrops give the spring water a distinctive hue. Botanical enthusiasts will be fascinated by the presence of rare moss species and giant ferns that survived the last glaciation.
In terms of architecture, the estates of Karksi, Ijsu, Lahmuse, Vana Võidu, and Kärstna, constructed in the 18th and 19th centuries, are noteworthy. Representing Art Nouveau heritage is Olustvere Manor, which welcomes visitors with its luxurious Jugend-style facade.
Viljandi County lacks direct access to the sea, so locals often swim in lakes like Viljandi, Võrtsjärv, and Linnaveski. These lakes warm up earlier than the Gulf of Riga, providing a beach season with water temperatures several degrees higher than sea resorts.
Järvamaa is the birthplace of Anton Hansen-Tammsaare, a renowned figure in Estonian literature. Since 1958, the writer's house-museum has been welcoming visitors in the village of Vetepere, where it recreates the farmstead described in his famous novel "Truth and Justice."
The history of settlement in Järvamaa dates back to the early XIII century. The Albu Manor, established in 1282 and later restored in the early classicism style during the mid-XVIII century, still stands as a testament to this history.
From here, you can explore hiking trails leading to the Kõrvemaa Landscape Reserve, a place beloved by the writer for his walks. The reserve is home to various bird species, including black storks, golden eagles, and spotted eagles, in its tranquil and secluded landscapes. Geology enthusiasts will appreciate the unique natural monument left by the glacier - the Tyurinskoye drumlin field.
Thanks to the Norra-Oostriku springs system, the county is blessed with ample reserves of high-quality fresh water. The Sopas mole, reaching a depth of nearly 5 meters, ensures the thorough purification of water as it passes through multiple layers of limestone.
A fascinating natural phenomenon often observed at Wilbaste Springs is when the powerful stream rises to the surface, carrying suspended sediment particles and causing the water to adopt a vibrant turquoise hue. The disturbance of these particles at the surface creates the appearance of bubbling water in the mole funnel, adding to the spring's unique charm.
Eastern Estonia encompasses the regions of Tartumaa and Jõgevamaa, nestled along the shores of Lake Peipsi. These regions have witnessed significant historical events, including decisive battles during the Livonian and Russo-Swedish wars. While medieval architecture hasn't remained intact, the area is dotted with picturesque ruins of castles, fortresses, and estates.
Tartumaa stands as a stronghold of scientific, technical, and cultural progress in Estonia. Home to the oldest university in Eastern Europe, Tartu is a hub of cutting-edge ideas in science and art. The city hosts art festivals and literary readings, effectively showcasing the avant-garde of modern thought to the public.
Geographically, the region is diverse, featuring various types of terrain found in Estonia. A significant portion of the county is covered by pristine, boggy landscapes found in natural parks like Emajõe Suursoo and Alam-Pedja, which have become rare in Europe. Lake Võrtsjärv's hollows neighbor the dromlins of the historic Vooremaa region, while the southeastern plateau's plains and valleys smoothly transition into the eastern spurs of the Otepää Uplands. The Tamme Nature Reserve holds relict sandstone outcrops from the Middle Devonian period.
Historical sites in the region include the Tamme manor house with a Dutch mill, the island of the Russian Old Believers Piirisaar, the St. Martin's Church in Kambja, and the St. Jacob's Church in Võnnu, known for housing one of the country's finest organs.
Jõgevamaa County takes pride in its undulating glacial landscapes, setting the stage for the folk epic recounting the adventures of the legendary giant, Kalevipoeg. Amidst these landscapes, you'll find the Tyuri Drumlin Field, the protected lakes of Vooremaa, the enchanting Sinialikas Spring, the hills of Kassinurme, and a massive boulder in Ehavere, all of which prepare travelers for a visit to Saare Manor. Here, you'll discover the museum dedicated to Kalevipoeg, a beloved hero in Estonian folklore.
For enthusiasts of more contemporary genres, Palamuse Parish is a notable destination, renowned for Oskar Luts's lyrical plays infused with mischievous peasant humor.
Architecturally, the region is characterized by two 18th-century gems: the rococo Põltsmasaas castle adorned with a luxurious rose garden and the baroque manor complex in the village of Luua.
If you're seeking inspiring scenery and a relaxing beach vacation, head to Saadjärv Lake. For those looking to hone their paddling skills, the Raigastvere sports center is a great choice. And if fishing is on your agenda, the Kajavere fishery is a go-to spot, known for its thriving pikeperch population, the largest in the country.
Southern Estonia takes the spotlight during the winter months, encompassing regions like Valgamaa, Võru County, and Põlvamaa. The hilly terrain, covered in deep snow, provides ideal conditions for cross-country skiing and snowmobiling. The Võhandu River, the longest in all of Estonia, begins its journey near Saverna. As it meanders toward Warm Lake, it carves out a valley with towering sandy banks.
The country's premier ski resorts are concentrated in Valgamaa County, specifically within the Otepää Upland area. The town of Otepää enjoys a well-earned reputation as the sports capital of the nation. In winter, it hosts qualifying rounds for the European Championships and World Cup ski races, while once the snow melts, the K90 freestyle ski jump becomes an impressive viewing platform.
Come summer, Otepää transforms into an adventure park with attractions like a climbing wall catering to climbers of all skill levels. Just a short three-kilometer drive from the town, Lake Pyuhajärv beckons with its crystal-clear waters, earning the international Blue Flag award for cleanliness.
A significant portion of the county is dedicated to nature conservation areas. The most popular hiking trails meander around the Meenikunno bog, the Taevaskoda rocks, and the Ahja River canyon, which has been transformed into the Tilleoru landscape reserve. Artificial caves in the Piusa River valley, remnants of quartz sand mining, are home to Eastern Europe's largest colony of bats. Additionally, protected bird species like the black tern, little gull, white-fronted goose, corncrake, and marsh crane have nesting grounds in the Riapina polder reserve.
Põlvamaa is often referred to as Estonia's "Silence Zone" because, during the pre-glacial period, this area was a magnet for meteorites. Around the village of Ilumetsa alone, you can find four star wounds, with the largest crater, Põrguhaud, measuring approximately 80 meters in diameter. Another celestial visitor touched down on a hill near Räpina Park around 10,000 years ago, leaving behind the Tsyõrikmägi crater, aptly named for its resemblance to a "doughnut with a hole."
Hinni Canyon, a shadowy valley adorned with Devonian sandstone outcrops, serves as the defining feature of Võru County. It has given rise to the Ryugeska Trail, which leads to Tindioru farm, home to an ostrich farm, trout farm, and reindeer pasture.
At the trail's other end lies Estonia's deepest lake, Rõuge-Suurjärv. The country's highest point, Suur-Munamägi Hill, standing at 318 meters in height, also graces Võru County.
As you traverse the Luhasoo Landscape Reserve's boggy terrain, you may find yourself envisioning Sherlock Holmes investigating the enigmatic case of the Baskerville Curse. Meanwhile, Haanja National Park reveals charming cascades of lakes teeming with fish.
