Not just the cathedral: what else is there to see in Cologne?

The Station and the House

In most cities around the world, the area around the train station is not the most welcoming place, and one is inclined to leave as quickly as possible. However, Cologne breaks this pattern. The area around the Hauptbahnhof is one of the most pleasant in the city. The station building itself is very elegant. Elements of the imperial Prussian style, it turns out, go well with modern designs. The wave-like roofs of the platforms flow smoothly into the massive arches of the Hohenzollern Bridge, which spans the murky Rhine.

Trains stop practically at the foot of Cologne Cathedral, which everyone here simply calls the Dom. Between the Dom and the station there is only a long stone staircase. There are more people sitting on its steps than walking.

You will cross the Hohenzollern Bridge for the first time on the train from the airport. But don't be lazy, walk across it on foot. Firstly, the right bank offers an excellent panoramic view of the old town. Secondly, you may be on a romantic trip. With your loved one, flowers, and a padlock. Finding a gap in the railing to attach your symbol of love is not that easy, by the way. There is almost no space left, and the bridge has probably become several tons heavier from all this jewelry. If you didn't bring a padlock with you, there is a special truck regularly parked at the end of the bridge, where you can not only buy a padlock, but also have anything you want engraved on it.

The list of station perks can confidently include a very decent and diverse food court (more than 20 outlets). Prices are even more pleasant than in the city itself. You can easily manage a starter and a main course for €10. The range goes from organic salads to Turkish specialties. As for the crowd — from delicate grandmothers with their granddaughters to rough characters swearing under their breath. Yet since at least a platoon of police officers patrols both inside and outside, you feel perfectly safe. Clean, dry, and comfortable.

You can view a detailed layout here.

Kölsch and Brauhauses

All of Germany drinks beer. And all of Cologne drinks Kölsch. Locals consider it a unique regional invention with no equal in the world. Stripped of the hype, however, Kölsch is essentially a medium-strength lager with a mild yet lingering bitterness.

What impresses is not so much the taste as the ritual surrounding it. While blunt Bavarians down beer from bottomless mugs, in Cologne it is consumed with decorum. Kölsch is traditionally sipped from small 200 ml glasses known as “Stange.”

A specially trained waiter (Köbes) keeps a sharp eye on when your “Stange” is empty and, by default, brings a fresh one. To keep track, he draws tally marks in pencil or chalk on your coaster or even on the table. This can go on indefinitely until you think to cover the glass with your coaster or turn it upside down. Erasing a tally mark would never cross anyone’s mind. Thanks to the modest size of the glass, you can happily make the rounds of Cologne’s beer halls until midnight — or until your money runs out. One 200 ml glass costs about €2.

Below is a selection of links to the most popular beer halls (Brauhauses) in central Cologne. Naturally, I did not manage to visit them all, but I sampled a few. In my humble ranking, the top spots go to Sion and Peters, though they are quite different. The former offers the refined atmosphere of an English club, while the latter feels more like a lively German fairground.

Near Früh stands an amusing monument to Cologne’s “original sin.” According to legend, there was once a time when gnomes did all the work for Cologne’s residents at night, leaving townsfolk free to sip Kölsch. But the curious wife of a tailor decided to spy on how it all worked — and she did. The hardworking gnomes took offense: “Work for yourselves from now on,” they declared, and went on an indefinite strike. One that continues to this day.

• www.paeffgen-koelsch.de
• www.brauhaus-reissdorf.de
• http://brauhaussion.de
• www.frueh-am-dom.de
• www.gaffelamdom.de
• www.gilden-im-zims.de
• www.kleine-glocke.de
• www.muehlenkoelsch.de
• www.peters-brauhaus.de

Eau de Cologne and Its Great-Grandmother

On every corner in Cologne, you will find not only Kölsch but also cologne for sale. More than 300 years ago, it was here that Eau de Cologne was invented, and its name quickly became generic. The signature fragrance with its distinctive mandarin note can be purchased in any souvenir shop — and it is most likely authentic. Yet to immerse yourself in the very origins of cologne, you must visit the house at Obenmarspforten 21 (near the Town Hall), where today the basement hosts a museum and the front hall a refined boutique.

In 1709, the Italian migrant Johann Maria Farina created the first Cologne-scented water in this very house — the great-grandmother of all colognes. The story of this family is no less inspiring than modern business sagas about Starbucks or Apple. The family enterprise was sustained and developed by ten successive generations of Farina. Since the time of Napoleon, a bottle of the signature “1709” perfume has been an essential souvenir from Cologne. Especially for bold machos and devoted lumberjacks, the Farina House also offers robust men’s fragrances.

Great St. Martin and His Brothers

In spirit, Cologne feels more like a Roman polis than a German burg. In terms of Romanesque churches, it can rival any Italian city except Rome. Cologne boasts no fewer than 12 such churches, forming an uneven arc around the Cathedral. Even the modern city synagogue on Roonstrasse follows the Romanesque architectural canon — an intriguing reinterpretation.

The most imposing church in this “Romanesque wreath” is Great St. Martin on Martinplatz. Impossible to miss, it stands only slightly lower than its Gothic counterpart and is, in places, even more atmospheric. Inside, you sense early Christianity: a stone altar, monks in white habits, Gregorian chants. Everything feels austere and solemn.

For orientation, all Cologne’s Romanesque churches are listed here. Admission is free everywhere. Do visit at least a few of them. For example, St. Gereon, where in the adjacent square lies a giant severed stone head. Or St. Ursula, crowned coquettishly atop its tower. This church houses the remains of the beloved local princess-saint, who, along with 11,000 innocent maidens, was martyred by wild Huns beneath Cologne’s walls. The event is even symbolized on the city’s coat of arms as 11 teardrops — though the entire tragedy strongly resembles a historical myth.

Wallraf and Ludwig

A dozen interpretations of the life and death of St. Ursula can be seen in the touching, naïve altarpieces at the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. It also features works by Stefan Lochner, a local icon of the Early Renaissance style. His paintings are distinguished by the refinement of faces and details. Particularly delicate is “Madonna in the Rose Bower.”

Another art museum — the Ludwig — houses one of Europe’s finest collections of modern art. As is customary, the exhibition includes a gentleman’s selection of black and blue squares. Yet beyond that, there are numerous undeniable masterpieces: “The Railway Station at Perpignan” by Salvador Dalí, “Caffè Greco” by Renato Guttuso, and an entire hall of pop art featuring Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein & Co. Details about events in these and other Cologne museums can be found on this website. Even more about city events — beyond museums — is available on the Cologne Tourist Office website.

Brühl and Bonn

Paris has Versailles, Berlin has Potsdam, and Cologne has Brühl. You can reach this small town in 30–40 minutes from central Cologne by tram No. 18. Why go? Brühl is home to a UNESCO-listed palace. From the outside, it looks rather modest, but inside it boasts a magnificently decorated hall in salamander hues. The flowerbeds surrounding the palace are even more splendid than its interior décor. If you’d like to immerse yourself in flowers, this is the place to be. Tucked away in one corner of the palace park is the Max Ernst Museum, dedicated to the star of the German avant-garde who was born in Brühl. Continuing on the same tram No. 18, you can also reach Bonn, the former capital of the Federal Republic of Germany. Today it is a neat and quiet city, likely to stir mainly the hearts of Beethoven fans.

Carnival and Advent

11.11 at 11:11 — that is the code of the Cologne Carnival. In scale, it is rivaled only by the Venetian Carnival and officially begins every year on November 11 at 11:11 a.m. However, after the lively kick-off comes a long pause, and the true climax of the festivities arrives only at the end of February. During this period, the city plunges into non-stop street action. The revelry lasts an entire week. In fact, locals prepare for it all year round. In Cologne, you can even find entire department stores specializing in carnival costumes — and they remain open throughout the summer. You can find more about the Cologne Carnival here.

The city celebrates Advent with no less enthusiasm — the period from late November until Christmas. Four main Christmas markets open near Cologne Cathedral, at Neumarkt and Heumarkt, and by the Chocolate Museum. Countless smaller markets fill the city’s neighborhoods. Everywhere, local artisans sell their crafts rather than mass-produced goods. Mulled wine and Kölsch flow freely. And don’t miss the chance to try a distinctly Cologne fast-food specialty — potato fritters served with apple sauce.

If you plan your trip in advance, you can enjoy this Christmas celebration at a very reasonable price. Cologne has convenient air connections with many European cities, and low-cost airlines regularly offer attractive fares. Thanks to its excellent transport accessibility, a trip here during the Christmas season remains affordable for travelers from across Europe.