Astana's Neighborhoods: Where Tourists Should Stay

Astana is divided by the Ishim River into the left (new) and right (old) banks, and administratively into five districts. For tourists, the most important thing is to understand the difference between Esil (where the main attractions are concentrated) and the other districts, which are primarily residential or business areas. Let’s take a look at where it’s worth staying and which areas tourists usually don’t visit at all.

How Astana Is Organized: Districts and Zones

The city is divided by the Ishim River into two fundamentally different parts. The left bank is New Astana, built after the capital was relocated in the late 1990s: government buildings, Baiterek, Khan Shatyr, the Palace of Peace and Harmony, and most of the city’s tourist postcards. The right, old bank is the historic part, more densely built-up, with more familiar Soviet and post-Soviet architecture.

Administratively, the city is divided into five districts: Esil, Saryarka, Almaty, Baikonur, and Nura (separated from the Esil District in 2022). Tourists really need to visit Esil and, to some extent, Saryarka and Almaty—the other districts are essentially residential and business areas with no attractions.

Astana’s Districts: A Comparison for Tourists

Esil

Esil is Astana’s central and most popular tourist district, located on the left bank of the Ishim River. It is home to most of the city’s landmarks: the Baiterek Tower, the Khan Shatyr shopping and entertainment center, the Palace of Peace and Harmony, the government quarter, Lovers’ Park, and the riverfront promenade. Most of the attractions in Esil are within walking distance of one another, making the district the most convenient place for tourists to stay—almost all the key points along the itinerary can be reached on foot or with a short taxi ride.

On the downside, the area is modern and, in places, “polished,” lacking the atmosphere of an old town; restaurants and hotels here are generally more expensive than in Saryarka.

Saryarka

Saryarka is a business district on the city’s historic right bank. It is home to offices, shopping and entertainment complexes, sports facilities, and clinics, as well as the train station. For tourists, this isn’t the main stop on the itinerary, but it’s a convenient base if more affordable prices for lodging and meals are a priority, and it’s only a 15–20-minute ride to Esil.

Almaty

Despite its name, this is not the city of Almaty, but a district of Astana on the left bank. It is a rapidly developing residential area with shopping centers, cafes, schools, and kindergartens. For tourists, it is primarily of interest as a place for shopping and everyday amenities, with no significant historical landmarks.

Baikonur

The northern part of the city, named after the spaceport. It is home to the Nursultan Nazarbayev International Airport, as well as hotels and shopping centers catering to transit passengers. Tourists usually pass through Baikonur on their way from the airport, but they don’t choose it as a base for their entire trip—the distance to the city center is considerable.

Which Areas of Astana Should Tourists Avoid

The Nura district is a new residential area that was separated from the Esil district in 2022. Modern residential complexes are being built here, but there is still little in the way of tourist infrastructure, attractions, or a well-developed public transportation system. There’s no point in staying here if the purpose of your trip is a classic sightseeing tour of the city center.

How to Choose a Neighborhood in Astana: A Quick Guide Based on Your Goals

• First time in the city, want to see everything on foot → Esil
• Price is important, and distance from the center isn’t a major concern → Saryarka
• Looking for shopping and casual cafes → Almaty
• Transit or late/early flight → a hotel near the airport in Baikonur

Tips for Choosing a Neighborhood in Astana

• Book accommodations in Esil if you want to minimize travel between attractions.
• Take the winter climate into account: distances that are pleasant to walk in the summer are best covered by public transportation in the winter when temperatures drop to -20…-30 °C.
• For a budget-friendly trip, compare prices in Saryarka—they’re often 20–30% lower than in Esil, with a travel time to the city center that’s only 15–20 minutes longer.
• If your flight is early in the morning or late at night, consider staying at a hotel near the airport for one night so you don’t waste time traveling.

FAQ

Which area of Astana is best for tourists to stay in?

Most tourists find Esil more convenient—it’s home to Baiterek, Khan Shatyr, and the main attractions, all within walking distance of each other.

How many districts are there in Astana?

Five: Esil, Saryarka, Almaty, Baikonur, and Nura. The latter was separated from the Esil district in 2022.

Which district of Astana is the cheapest to live in?

Saryarka is usually cheaper than Esil, with a 15–20-minute difference in travel time to the city center by public transportation—this is a practical compromise for those who don’t want to overpay for proximity to the sights.

Is it worth staying in the Nura district?

Not for a typical tourist trip—it’s a new residential area with no major attractions and a tourist infrastructure that isn’t yet fully developed.

Where is Astana Airport located?

It’s in the Baikonur district, in the northern part of the city. There are hotels for transit passengers near the airport.